Demystifying the controversy around Audemars Piguet’s new collection
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Demystifying the controversy around Audemars Piguet's new collection
Lawmaking xi.59, Audemars Piguet'due south kickoff major new drove in a long while, drew considerable flak when it launched, but CEO Francois-Henry Bennahmias isn't fazed by the firestorm. Here's why.
Audemars Piguet'southward Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked, in 18K pink gilded, features a skeletonised movement. (Photo: Audemars Piguet)
08 Apr 2022 06:30AM (Updated: 04 Jul 2022 03:58PM)
Information technology'southward eleven:59 pm. I minute to midnight. Sixty seconds before a new 24-hour interval begins. There'due south excitement in the air, a palpable sense of anticipation. This was exactly the sentiment that Audemars Piguet's branding gurus were going for when they dreamt up the watchmaker's latest collection, Code 11.59, a drove destined to exist the next big colonnade, alongside the wildly successful Royal Oak, Imperial Oak Offshore and Millenary serial.
Audemars Piguet (AP) debuted the collection on Instagram – every bit and so many luxury brands are wont to do these days – a day alee of the beginning of SIHH 2019, ensuring that it would exist the talk of the boondocks.
The backlash it faced in the ensuing minutes, hours and days of the launch was something else birthday. To call information technology a "s***storm" – every bit a few media outlets put information technology – might be a bit harsh. Many keyboard warriors/WIS (Scout Idiot Savants) were non inconversable in telling the make exactly how they felt most the Code.
On Twitter, Instagram and spider web forums, many felt that the Code 11.59 watches were disappointing. Some said the watches no longer had AP Dna left in its veins. Others criticised the Code for non eliciting the same level of excitement a Regal Oak would.
For the virtually part, the criticisms that were being levelled came from the same milieu where the watches were launched to begin with – the digital sphere. Many of these keyboard warriors/WIS hadn't actually seen the watches in person.
On the flip side, many of the journalists who were on the footing at SIHH 2022 had quite a unlike verdict. One simple caption for this online "s***storm" equally it were, is the fact that maybe the photos didn't do the watch justice.
READ> The timepieces debuting at SIHH 2022 that have the manufacture buzzing
Co-ordinate to Bloomberg, AP CEO Francois-Henry Bennahmias said that when they released the Royal Oak Frosted Gold watches two years agone, information technology took them v months to get a picture that perfectly captured the effect.
One of the scout's most attractive aspects is its double domed sapphire crystal, which generates an optical upshot that enhances the advent of the dial to the wearer. This, unfortunately, did non come across in the photos. Even a video wasn't much help; the subtleties of the crystal architecture were lost.
Who in their right mind would purchase a luxury stainless steel sports spotter, was the overarching sentiment at the time. Well, a thou people eventually did, although information technology took AP four years to do so. Ironic, considering how stainless steel watches routinely outperform their precious metal counterparts at auctions these days.
Despite all the controversy – or peradventure that was the intention all along – Bennahmias wasn't/isn't fazed. His conviction was apparent during an interview with lookout man weblog Hodinkee's editors prior to the collection's launch.
And this conviction manifests in the collection'southward broad, comprehensive offer. While near brands might release entry-level models (iii-hand automatics, possibly a modular chronograph) to examination the waters with a new collection, AP decided to go the whole hog.
Code eleven.59 comes with 13 references and offers make new in-business firm movements including a flying tourbillon and an integrated chronograph move, which many fans have been dying to see in the Royal Oak. The case, while appearing round when viewed front on, is actually more complex: Its midsection is octagonal and sports alternating brushed and polished finishes. And the lesser department of the lugs aren't secured to the instance; they rest gently against information technology. These details are best appreciated in person.
Testing the waters AP is not. No, the business firm is sure that the collection will live on. In Bennahmias' words, he wants to button ii,000 Code eleven.59 watches in the first twelvemonth and is aiming for the collection to brand up xx to 25 per cent of the brand'due south global offering in the hereafter. (This also means a reduction in the supply of Purple Oaks and Royal Oak Offshores, but that's some other story for another day).
His faith in the collection is not unfounded; just before the official unveiling of Code 11.59, AP held a private effect in Le Brassus (the brand'southward headquarters and spiritual dwelling in the Swiss Jura) for 125 clients and many of them, he says, put down orders for watches.
Whether or non Code xi.59 volition catch on, nosotros'll have to expect and encounter. Simply if we were to put our money on how things will play out, we'd bet on the human being who propelled AP to cross the US$1 billion (S$one.35 billion) sales marker in 2018.
Source: https://cnalifestyle.channelnewsasia.com/obsessions/audemars-piguet-code-11-59-sihh-2019-239316
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